Years ago I
read a quote from troubadour Steve Earle where he stated, “Townes Van Zandt is
the best songwriter in the whole world and I’ll stand on Bob Dylan’s coffee
table in my cowboy boot and say that.”. While I know it was said slightly
tongue-in-cheek, I'd like to just go on record stating that I emphatically
disagree with that line of thinking. Please. Have you read the lyrics to
“Visions of Johanna”, “To Ramona” or “Idiot Wind”?! The reason I bring
this up is that there’s something about the boldness behind his chosen words
which I was reminded of this past weekend while enjoying a bottle of rosé. Not
any bottle of rosé though. As a matter of fact, I will go as far as to say that
R. López de Heredia in Rioja produces the best rosé in the whole world.
And this uber-traditional producer has had a bit of time to perfect their
skills as they’ve been making wines for a hundred and thirty-one years.
There are so many aspects of this rosado which set it above and beyond its fellow pink bottlings. To start with, the issue of that color pink. It's not. While most rosés are celebrated each spring with the vibrancy of a current vintage, the Lopez de Heredia is eleven years old before released and has taken on a more copper-orange hue. The grape breakdown is Tempranillo, Garnacha and Viura. While aging may vary per vintage, the most recent 1998 spent four and a half years in oak barrels and then six more in bottle. Not only does the light tawny color get me every-single-time, but the nose(!)...it's unforgettable. Tangerine, apricot, orange blossom and dried fruit with notes that remind you of oxidized sherry. To say this wine is complex and rich would be the oenological understatement of the year. And the minerality in the finish, I'm still tasting it this Monday afternoon. Yes, it's that long.
The gourmands of Astor Center will tell you this is best paired with something along the lines of Middle Eastern, Indian or Thai. I chose to savor it on its own while watching Guy Maddin's Brand Upon The Brain!. But this is really something you should not simply take my word for. Be adventurous and pick up a bottle at Astor Wines & Spirits tonight.
Oh, and Townes Van Zandt had this response to Mr. Earle's comment, "I've met Bob Dylan and his bodyguards, and I don't think Steve could get anywhere near his coffee table."