I was on Gourmet.com today,
admiring it’s beautiful aesthetic. I love the color palate, the simplicity and
the beautiful images that accompany the articles. As my eyes were scanning the
homepage, I came across something familiar but yet somewhat out of place in its
context. It was the Happy Meal pizza from uber-pop blog Thisiswhyyourefat.com,
a site I am all too familiar with. For those living under the proverbial rock;
or using a 14.4 modem to try and apply that same LP nostalgia to you PC;
Thisiswhyyourefat.com is a website that hosts user submitted pictures of
creations like: lardz (deepfried lardballs covered in sugar), the pizza cone (an ice cream cone shaped pizza), Double BBQ Stack Burger (pictured) & deep fried cheeseburger on a stick (deep fried cheeseburger on a sitck). A cornucopia of conflicting
adjectives has been used to describe the site’s images. Adjectives like
disturbing, genius, gross, gluttonous, amazing, etc.
Robert Ashley is the author
of the aforementioned article on Gourmet.com called The Gross-Food Movement. It is a great piece abstracting
and dissecting this burgeoning culinary sub-culture online. He is also
responsible for the label “Gross-Food”.
I, sports fans, am no
stranger to this sub-culture. I’m too picky an eater to be a foodie. My mother
was unfortunately not the best cook while I was growing up, so I subsisted on
the ever innovative menus of the many fast food establishments that freckle the
beautiful, under appreciated borough of Staten Island.
I also had an open kitchen after school, a freezer filled with frozen junk
food, and lots of friends that “helped me get by”. We would mix together, deep
fry anything we could possibly think of. Once the state put us behind the
wheel, we were able to find those who had perfected out amateur experiments in
cholesterol raising. Places like the Grease Trucks in New
Jersey, Crif Dogs in New York City
and Cherry Valley
in Queens. Coinciding with our coming of age
was this wonderful fad called the internet. Allowing people to share their
similar experiments with the world (or at least those on the right side of the
digital divide)
This article is a great
overview of how these foods are represented and proliferating. He speaks to the
contributors of this movement who take offense to the term “gross-food”. He
mentions how this movement takes the general atmosphere of eating healthy,
buying local, improving out diets and gives it the middle finger. This reminded
me of a similar movement. Punk Rock.
There are many who see these
abominations and gag. It is crass. It is offensive to the thoughtfully
developed, subtle and tasteful creations by innovators who have worked their
whole lives to perfect their craft. It is food for and by those who cannot cook
well (though I am not saying that there are not those who contribute that do
not have serious skill). It’s creating without the need for refined skill. It’s
seeing three chords on the cover of a photocopied zine and starting a movement
out of it.
It’s a movement that once
given a name, people have an easy way to identify and then criticize. A name
that while semantically derogatory at first, may indeed become a term
representing relevance and importance. It’s food without the boundaries of
convention that and kid can get up and do. Can up and create something awesome
that their parents will look at and scoff. Say “That’s not food, that’s crap.”
While there may not be the obvious
message at first glance that Punk Rock screeched into a microphone, it is
indeed in response to a culture beginning to be taken over by the 11-minute
guitar solos of gastronomy. It's going against the haute-dogs and glam-burgers. It's taking back peasant food. It's quick. It’s easy. And best of all anyone
can do it. Even me.
Read "The Gross-Food Movement" from Gourmet.com