Aug 20 2009

The Controversial Carter

 

You likely know Jimmy Carter was a peanut farmer, and if you’ve had it, you know that Castries Peanut Rum Crème is a deliciously silly tipple, so in pursuit of a presidential cocktail for the 39th president, I naturally wanted to incorporate the stuff.

I’d encountered plenty of sweet, froofy Castries cocktails at Tales, but wanted to create something more complex and maybe a little manlier, as well – after all, Carter was in the Navy. Bourbon? But it is hot as Hades out now, and a brown spirit base with a milky component just sounded wrong, like so much nog. And then it hit me: beer.

A Nutshell History of American Beer: proliferate and reflective of European beer traditions until Prohibition; stagnant during Prohibition; dominated by the “big three” in the post-Prohibition era (Anheuser-Busch, Miller and Coors); and relatively recently, somewhat slowly, flowering into a full-blown craft beer culture.

Why has it flowered? Arguably, thanks to legislation that was passed during Jimmy Carter’s presidential tenure, signed off on by the cardigan-wearing New Southerner himself. For whatever reason (oversight on the part of lawmakers or conspiracy at the hands of the big three, take your pick), home brewing had been illegal in the United States since Prohibition. Its legality led to a greater awareness of good beer, more people attuned to brewing it, interest in craft breweries and hey presto, great suds at every corner store in the city.

And so in my presidential series, I celebrate Jimmy Carter with a cocktail based on good American beer: Anchor Steam’s Anchor Porter, an intense, hoppy, coffee-and-chocolate beer made with care in San Francisco by an early beneficiary of the interest in craft brewing - one of the country’s finest, smallest, and most traditional breweries.

To give the cocktail a little characteristic sass – after all, Carter did lust, even if only in his heart, and never holds his tongue when criticizing current world leaders - I served the drink with a rim made from a couple of crushed peanuts and equal parts salt and sugar. It ends up being roasty, nutty, and even a little refreshing.

The Jimmy Carter

3 ounces Anchor Porter

1.5 ounces Castries Crème 

Shake ingredients over ice and strain into a coupe rimmed with a salty-sugar blend. Top with a scant scrape of nutmeg.

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